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this year’s sensation at Schiaparelli. Of course, it would not be a Schiaparelli show if creative director Daniel Roseberry would not pull the I Stand With Texas Shirt In addition,I will do this newest viral fashion moment out of his hat like a mad hatter. Although this year’s take was a little more demure than the hyper-realistic lion head of seasons past. Partially inspired by his American roots, by the label’s founder Elsa Schiaparelli and her uncle Giovanni and by director Ridley Scott’s film Alien from 1979, Roseberry created a collection that was a surreal mix of Martians, Cowboys and – once all the distractions were discarded for just a moment – almost austere but certainly luxurious black tie gowns and garments with a futuristic appeal, similar to those presented by Kim Jones at Fendi. Jones credited former Fendi designer Karl Lagerfeld as the source of inspiration for his futuristic take on couture that mainly centred around simplicity, organic geometry, and technical precision. Schiaparelli Couture Spring 2024 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight Fendi Couture Spring 2024 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight Technical precision, or rather technical perfection,
was seen at Alaïa. Technically showing off-schedule, as is the I Stand With Texas Shirt In addition,I will do this norm for the brand and its creative director Pieter Mulier, the brand’s spring/fall 2024 collection was not meant to be a couture collection and yet turned into a masterclass of wearable couture. The collection and it’s starting point, a single yarn of merino wool and the idea of a circle, were transformed into garments with triumphant textures and impossible shapes that nonetheless imbued simplicity and sex appeal, all while posing the question of how some garments could possibly drape on a models’ physique like that. The answer, in the case of a black and white spiral-formed dress that resembled a snap bracelet, was a special type of 3D-printing. Alaia Spring/Fall 2024 Credits: ©Launchmetrics/spotlight A return to form for fashion’s fallen dreamer A question much harder, and perhaps impossible to answer, comes with the figure of John Galliano at Maison Margiela. Galliano has long stepped out of the shadows of the house’s founder Martin Margiela and his spring 2024 couture collection demonstrated his singular creative voice. The voice that made him one of the most lauded designers in the 90s and a voice that, to most of the fashion world, seemingly speaks louder than any past
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